You’re landing at the world’s most northerly capital. It sits at 64° north, the same latitude as Anchorage, Alaska, and in July, the sun barely bothers setting. Welcome to the edge of the world.
Iceland was the last place in Europe to be permanently settled. Norse explorers arrived in 874 AD, led by Ingólfur Arnarson, who named the spot Reykjavík, “Smoky Bay”, after the steam rising from the geothermal hot springs. That steam is still rising. Today it heats 90% of the city’s buildings for free. Your hot tap water will smell faintly of sulphur. This is completely normal.
The country has just 370,000 people in total, roughly the population of Geelong. Reykjavík holds about a third of them. Despite that, Iceland publishes more books per capita than any nation on earth, produces more musicians per capita than almost anywhere, and has been ranked the world’s most peaceful country for years running. Small, remote, and unexpectedly extraordinary.
The language is Old Norse, barely changed. Icelanders today can read 1,000-year-old Viking sagas in the original without a dictionary. The government runs an official committee whose job is to invent new Icelandic words rather than borrow English ones. “Computer” in Icelandic is tölva, a blend of “number” and “prophetess.”