Norway’s second city sits at the foot of seven mountains on the edge of the western fjords. It was the largest city in Scandinavia for much of the Middle Ages and is still the most beautiful one.
Bergen was founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre and for two centuries served as Norway’s capital and primary trading port. The Hanseatic League, a powerful medieval merchant network based in Germany, established a trading post here in the 14th century called Bryggen, the old wooden wharf that still lines the harbour today. Those timber buildings are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which makes the fact that people live and work in them genuinely extraordinary.
The city sits at 60° north, encircled by seven mountains on three sides and open to the North Sea on the fourth. The mountains trap Atlantic weather systems, which is why Bergen is famously the wettest major city in Europe, over 2,200mm of rain a year, rain on more than 220 days. In July, though, it’s often glorious. Pack a layer and hope for the best.
Bergen is the gateway to the fjords. The Sognefjord, longest and deepest in the world, is two hours away. The city itself punches well above its size: it produced Edvard Grieg, has one of Europe’s great fish markets, and a pub culture that takes the local catch seriously. Pingvinen, where you’re eating tonight, is exactly that.